Grains and Cereals in Taitung

The Ark of Taste of the Five Grains in the Nanhui region: A millet centered food culture in Taitung

The food culture of the Nanhui (Southern Link) area in Taitung takes millet (vaqu in Paiwan) as the axis of life, forming a complete system in which cyclical farming and collective identity are interwoven. Paiwan people believe that “as long as we keep eating millet and planting millet, millet will not disappear.” In their language, there is no word for “heritage” or “transmission”; there is only “t a lem” (to plant), meaning that as long as planting continues, wisdom will naturally be passed on. Millet: the center of the life cycle Among the Paiwan communities along the Dazhu River in the Nanhui area, millet goes far beyond the meaning of food. The entire “year” of the community begins with the sowing of millet, and all rituals, hunting activities, and daily schedules are arranged according to its growth cycle. The life cycle of millet thus becomes the temporal axis of the community’s culture, marking seasonal changes, the timing of ceremonies, and moments of gathering. Glutinous millet: a vessel of ritual and reunion In Paiwan, glutinous millet is called “qudjidjil i” (meaning “red”), a variety prized for its beautiful, heavy grains that turn a golden yellow when cooked and are deeply loved by the people. With its high amylopectin content, it becomes sticky when cooked, and is the main ingredient for millet dumplings (cinavu) and millet cakes (qavay). In traditional processing, millet is pounded into flour, kneaded into dough, and then fermented, during which a strong sour odor develops. This smell holds a special meaning in Paiwan culture—it signals that relatives are about to reunite and that joyful events are near. When this sour smell drifts through the community, people know that family members will be returning and gathering again. This is not only an instance of fermentation in food science, but also a social ritual in the sense of cultural anthropology. The making of millet dumplings and millet cakes involves a complex layered technique: a bottom layer of shell ginger leaves to provide aroma and wrapping, a middle layer of beggar’s-ticks (Plantago/“jia suanjiang”) leaves with digestive and anti bloating effects, then a layer of fermented millet dough, taro stalks, and cured meat. This is a sophisticated craft that combines the properties of several plants and reveals a deep understanding of the functions of different ingredients. Preserving this variety is crucial—it sustains ritual practices, indigenous taxonomies in language, and flavor memories of fermented foods, and helps prevent industrial rice varieties from completely replacing the cultural roots of the community. Non glutinous (uruchi) millet: a disappearing everyday staple The non glutinous millet called “cuparan” in Paiwan becomes fluffy and loose when cooked rather than sticky. It is regarded as easier to digest and is especially suitable for women, elders, and postpartum mothers, reflecting the community’s careful attention to the nutritional needs of different groups. However, non glutinous millet is facing an extremely threatened situation. Because its characteristics are similar to those of local non glutinous rice, once fewer people plant it, it is easily and completely replaced by modern white rice culture. With the spread of paddy rice and changes in dietary habits, the daily staple of Indigenous peoples has largely been replaced by white rice. Farmers tend to plant only glutinous varieties used for rituals and brewing, as these have higher cultural demand. The role of non glutinous millet as an everyday staple is gradually disappearing. Safeguarding non glutinous millet is of critical importance: as a C4 plant, it is drought tolerant and thrives in poor soils, with a short growing period (about 4–6 months), making it particularly suitable for the shale and dryland landscapes that dominate eastern Taitung. In a future of increasingly frequent extreme weather, maintaining diversified non glutinous millet varieties can help ensure food security and climate resilience. More importantly, restoring the cultivation and consumption of non glutinous millet means reviving the healthy dietary structure of “coarse grains as staples” among Indigenous peoples and reclaiming the autonomy of community agriculture. The Ark of Taste of the Nanhui Five Grains is not merely an inventory of agricultural products, but a complete way of life. Under the spirit of the Slow Food Ark of Taste, the preservation of these crops involves: – Cultural identity: By continuously planting and eating millet, the people maintain their connection to their ancestors and cultural roots. – Ecological sustainability: Crop rotation, nitrogen fixing species, and coexistence with wildlife embody a model of sustainable agriculture. – Food sovereignty: Safeguarding the right to choose their own staples and dietary patterns, in resistance to globalized homogenization. – Economic justice: Through markets, geographic indications, and food education, creating fair income for small farmers and communities. – Knowledge transmission: Documenting Indigenous terminology, production techniques, and ritual meanings to prevent the loss of intangible cultural heritage. A saying from the Paiwan people best captures all of this: “As long as the people keep eating millet and planting millet, millet will not disappear.” This is not just a wish, but a declaration of action—protecting these flavors is protecting the sustainable future of Taiwan’s Austronesian cultures.