Field Notes on Eating

“Taitung brewing craftsmanship, quietly fermenting the mountains, seas, and stories of this land.”

The traditional food culture of the Paiwan people in the Taitung and Pingtung regions is a complete knowledge system regarding the symbiosis and mutual prosperity of plants and microbes. Through thousands of years of observation and practice, the Paiwan people have mastered how to transform plants from their surrounding natural environment into drinks and foods of spiritual significance and social connection through refined craftsmanship and rigorous rituals. This knowledge is still breathing in daily life, waiting for contemporary rediscovery and protection. The Microbial Mystery of the Wine Starter: A Concerto of Five Key Plants From Chewing Liquor to Modern Starter Making The brewing culture of Taiwan’s Indigenous peoples runs deep. The earliest method of starter making can be traced back to "chewing liquor"—using enzymes in saliva to promote fermentation. Even against the backdrop of advanced modern technology, traditional starter-making techniques still circulate within the tribes, standing as witnesses to history. The wine starter (pikak) is the key to transforming grain into alcohol, holding the critical factor for successful brewing. Five Key Plants of the Paiwan Pikak Starter Vuvu Varikai (Gu Yu-e), an elder over eighty years old from the Daxi tribe, taught the use of five starter-making plants to Pia (Tian Ma Qingshan). Each has its unique function and harvesting taboos: Seven-mile Fragrance / Orange Jasmine (Galapang - Murraya paniculata) Function: Brings a spicy sensation to the brew. Harvesting: Only tender twigs and leaves are harvested; flowering plants are forbidden. Logic: This taboo reflects a profound understanding of the plant's growth cycle. Flowering Orange Jasmine has entered its reproductive phase, altering its chemical composition and efficacy. Ngai Camphor (Pangaru - Blumea balsamifera) Function: Brings aroma to the brew. Logic: A member of the Asteraceae family, it is also used for healing herbal baths for women after childbirth. The existence of this multi-functional plant demonstrates the economy of traditional knowledge—maximizing the utility of a single plant. Small Yellow Chrysanthemum (Palikung - Glossogyne tenuifolia) Function: Primarily brings sweetness to the brew; one of the three essential foundation plants. Logic: The inulin provided by this Asteraceae plant becomes a nutrient source for microbes during fermentation. Rosary Pea (Karatju / 'Aladju - Abrus precatorius) Function: Primarily adds sweetness. It is a secondary ingredient. Logic: Its red seeds are toxic but used for making jewelry. This demonstrates the tribe's precise classification of toxicity versus utility—different parts of the same plant have different uses. Indian Catmint (Atap - Anisomeles indica) Function: Brings aroma to the brew. It is a secondary ingredient with a scent reminiscent of kelp or Chinese medicine. Logic: It is also used in the rituals of Puyuma shamans. This cross-tribal value illustrates the importance of plants throughout the Austronesian world. The Scientific Logic of Starter Plants Starter plants are roughly divided into two categories: "essential plants" that affect taste and plants that provide nutrients for fermentation. For example, Asteraceae plants provide inulin as nutrition for microbes. More importantly, plants like Negundo Chastetree (Vitex negundo) are often added because their alkalinity inhibits the growth of acetic acid bacteria, preventing the wine from souring into vinegar. This represents a deep understanding of microbial ecology—the tribe members don't just know "to use Vitex negundo," they know "how the alkalinity of Vitex negundo inhibits specific microbes." The Process and Taboos of Starter Making: Ritual is Science Strict Taboos and Their Microbial Logic There are strict taboos during traditional starter making: no sneezing, no spitting, no flatulence, and restrictions on the entry of pregnant women. These seemingly mysterious rules are actually the scientific protection of the microbial environment—any foreign particles, fluids, or gases could introduce contaminating bacteria, leading to the failure of the starter. These taboos are not superstition, but an ancient recognition of the need for a sterile environment for microbes. The tribe uses the language of ritual and taboo to express the same concepts that modern science expresses through sterile technology.