Recipes Revisited from Memory

PhotoSlow Food Taitung

ArticleSlow Food Taitung

Date：2025.12.03

Based on the traditional brewing craftsmanship of the Paiwan people, specifically the pikak (wine starter) method passed down from Vuvu Varikai of the Daxi Tribe to Pia (Tian Ma Qingshan), the entire process can be divided into the following main stages: The Complete Production Process of Paiwan Pikak Wine Starter

Stage 1: Preparation and Raw Materials

Select wild herbs for the starter, usually in a 1:1:1 ratio: Basic (essential): Orange Jasmine (Galapang, spiciness), Ngai Camphor (Pangaru, aroma), Small Yellow Chrysanthemum (Palikung, sweetness). Secondary (optional): Rosary Pea (Karatju, extra sweetness), Indian Catmint (Atap, extra aroma). Harvest only tender twigs and leaves (avoid flowers), then prepare 500 g of dry-milled white or glutinous rice flour so it can fully absorb the herbal juice later. Traditional taboos require a calm space: no sneezing, spitting, or flatulence; in some customs, pregnant women should not enter, to avoid disturbing fermentation.

Stage 2: Boiling the Herbal Juice

Wash and cut the herbs, then boil them uncovered, stirring with a wooden stick (traditionally Orange Jasmine wood). After about 30 minutes, when leaves are soft and the liquid turns light brown like oolong tea, strain out the herbs and cool the juice to room temperature.

Stage 3: Dough Making and Shaping

Gradually mix the cooled herbal juice into the 500 g of rice flour. Knead until smooth and non-sticky. Shape into 5–6 cm balls, then press the center to form flat discs—these are the pikak.

Stage 4: Inoculation and Initial Fermentation

Crush a piece of old pikak and sift it as powder over each new disc to introduce brewing microbes and suppress harmful bacteria. Place the discs on a sieve, cover with cloth, and keep them in a dark, warm, humid, and stable indoor environment for 2–3 days. Success is shown by fragrant white mycelium on the surface. If they turn black, the batch has spoiled and must be discarded.

Stage 5: Drying and Storage

When white mold fully covers the surface and smells fragrant, sun-dry the discs. Expose them in the morning and bring them in before the harsh afternoon sun. In summer, 3–4 days of repeated drying usually suffice. Once completely dry, store the starters in the freezer.

Analogy

Making this traditional starter is like crafting a precious invitation letter for microbes. The herbal juice is the “paper,” rich in aroma and nutrients. The rice dough discs are the “envelopes.” Sprinkling old starter is the “ancestral seal,” inviting only friendly yeasts and molds. The dark, humid room becomes their “guest room.” When white fuzz appears, it means the guests have arrived and are ready to begin their work.

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